The most stunning jewelry comes together every two years. The world’s exclusive jewelry Houses exhibit namely at the Biennale in Paris. The 28th edition of the fair featured four relatively young contemporary jewelry Houses among the antiquarians’ stands. Cindy Chao from Taiwan. Nirav Modi from India. And Boghossian and De Grisogono from Geneva. The latter was the only one to have previously exhibited at the Biennale.
Founded in 2007 in Geneva, the House of Boghossian quickly took a strong position in the jewelry world. It is a harmonious combination of unconventional design with rare stones, tradition with innovation, and Eastern culture with Western. For example, they have revived and perfected he technique of “stone in stone”. It was known in Ancient Egypt, and actively used in the Mughal era. During the process of creation, a specially-faceted mineral is placed in a groove cut in the other, creating an illusion of integrity.
The Swiss House de Grisogono is relatively young – it is only 23. But this does not prevent the brand from being among the top ten most famous jewelry companies in the world. Its founder and creative director, Fawaz Gruosi, has created a fashion for black diamonds, increasing their cost sixteen-fold. He began to use icy diamonds and stingray skin in his design. He also invented the browny brown gold. He plays with volumes and colors, loves shocking, and combines super rare stones with semiprecious ones. Gruosi likes to surprise his friends, clients and fans, and in this art he has no equal!
For example, at the last Biennale, de Grisogono introduced The Constellation – the most expensive rough diamond in the world weighing in at 813 cts. It was bought for a record $63 million.
NM: Diamonds are the most precious form of love. Diamonds make a woman really feel beautiful.
A passionate love for diamonds and understanding of luxury helped Nirav Modi to build a successful jewelry company in just six years. His jewelry is a combination of classic European design with Indian motifs and rare investment minerals. They are inspired by precious masterpieces from the Mughal treasury, art, poetry, and nature. Modi himself describes his style of work as a push to “ignite femininity”, without being tied to something specific.
NM: We have 4 edges of cuts. We have the Endless cut which is… it is cut out of one diamond; a head of diamonds. We have the Mughal cut, which I have here. And in the Mughal cut, this is inspired by Mughal miniatures. And from the petal; the diamond is cut in the shape of a petal, instead of a pave diamond, which you can see here. We have the Ainra cut, and what we did with the Ainra cut was… we created… we replaced gold links with diamonds. So what you see here is just diamonds and diamonds, with flexibility also.
NM: I have two young daughters and one day I saw them playing with toy bangles which stretch and they were laughing. And I said let’s make this into a jewel. Why can’t women have fun with their jewelry? We created this — as you see it stretches, and it just… it fits any hand. It’s very playful and beautiful. And then we have I think the most beautiful of all, it’s the Jasmine diamond cut, where it’s got the softness and brilliance of diamonds.
Cindy Chao, the world-famous jeweler from Taipei, celebrates twelve years in the industry. During this short period the designer’s jewelry has become a titbit for even the most discerning collectors. Therefore her works always cause a frenzy at Christie’s and Sotheby’s auctions.
CC: I do think that every artist has a different essence and different attributes. As I always share to my people or my clients, I think that everybody has a different taste. But the most important thing is: your work has to be very authentic — your own style. So for example, a lot of jewelry designers out of the jewelry Houses, they make different flowers, butterflies… But why are things just different? Because it’s my own essence, and also, it’s a signature of my own style.